Noodles · 5 margin notes

Midnight Garlic Noodles

Where this came fromNot inherited from anyone — this is simply what we cook at the end of a long evening, and it has been refined over a few years of exactly that. We have tried the same dish with raw garlic, gently softened garlic and properly browned garlic, and the difference is large enough to be worth writing down.
5 minPrep
10 minCook
15 minTotal
2Servings

Ingredients

  • 8 oz dried noodles or spaghetti
  • 8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon chili flakes
  • 1/4 cup grated Parmesan
  • 2 scallions, sliced
  • Black pepper

Method, annotated

The notes in the right-hand column explain why each step is there.

  1. Put the noodles on to cook in well-salted water, and reserve a cup of the water before draining.
    Why save itThe starch in pasta water is what lets butter and soy sauce form a sauce that clings instead of pooling. It is the only thickener in this recipe.
  2. While they cook, melt the butter with the olive oil in a cold pan over medium-low heat and add the sliced garlic straight away.
    Why coldStarting garlic in cold fat lets it toast evenly as the pan warms. Dropping it into hot fat browns the outside before the inside has cooked, which is how garlic turns bitter.
  3. Cook 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often, until the slices are pale gold and the kitchen smells sweet rather than sharp.
    The decisionPale gold is the target. Raw garlic tastes harsh here, and dark brown garlic is bitter — the window between them is about ninety seconds, which is why this step gets its own paragraph.
  4. Add the chili flakes and soy sauce to the pan and let it bubble for 20 seconds.
    Why nowThe soy hits the hot butter and reduces slightly, which concentrates it. Added at the end instead, it tastes thin and salty.
  5. Add the drained noodles and a splash of the reserved water, and toss hard over medium heat until glossy, adding more water as needed. Finish with Parmesan, scallions and black pepper.
    Why toss hardAgitation is what emulsifies the butter and starchy water into a sauce. Gentle stirring leaves you with buttery noodles and a puddle.
Keeping it

This is a dish to eat immediately — it does not keep well, because the noodles absorb the sauce within about ten minutes and go dry. If you must, refrigerate within two hours and eat within two days, reheating in a pan with a splash of water rather than a microwave.

If you remember one thing

Watch the garlic, not the clock. Pale gold is the whole dish, and it goes from there to bitter faster than you expect.

*Approximately 480 calories per serving. Calories are an estimate from standard ingredient databases; actual values vary by brand and portion. See our disclaimer.

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